There has been a spate of such great cookery books coming out at the moment, as recent weeks of Cookbook Corner demonstrate, and this week's contender shows the trend is still on the up. Morito - the tapas-bar little sibling to the long-celebrated Moro is a work of great joy, as indeed all titles from this illustrious stable have been: it looks beautiful, in a homemade, informal way, the recipes are inspiring and do-able and I have already given 3 copies as presents. I suspect that come Christmas, I will be giving it to a lot more people, too.
I um-ed and ah-ed and ah-ed and um-ed making my recipe selection for you, as all cried out to be chosen, but in the end went for the one that is a basic of the place, and might well become a staple in my house, the Morito rolls. Don't be put off making your own bread: it's one of the most uplifting experiences you can have in the kitchen!
From Morito by Sam and Sam Clark. Published by Ebury Press, 2014 (£26).
Morito rolls came about in an effort to replicate the delicious molletes most famously produced from a 200-year-old recipe in Antequera, in the province of Málaga. Their character is a moist chewy roll that is deliciously crunchy when toasted. Perfect for all our needs.
Makes 15-20 rolls
600ml tepid water
750g organic strong white bread flour (Shipton Mill or Doves Farm), plus extra for dusting
1 heaped teaspoon dried yeast
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon sugar
a little olive oil, for the baking sheets
Put all the ingredients except the oil in a bowl or food mixer with a dough hook. Thoroughly combine, then knead for 5 minutes, or more if working by hand, until the dough feels smooth and elastic. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes, then knead again for 3 minutes. Cover the dough and place in the fridge for 1-2 hours to relax. This helps when you shape the rolls, as the dough is quite sticky. Line 2 or more baking sheets with lightly oiled baking parchment.
To form the rolls, first give the dough one more quick knead in the bowl. Then pinch off pieces of dough just larger than a golf ball and place on the baking sheets in rough roundish shapes (the dough is very forgiving). Leave them to rest for 30-45 minutes in a warm place, until they have doubled in size. Meanwhile preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6.
Bake the rolls for 10-12 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and transfer to a cooling rack.
These rolls freeze well if par-baked for 10 minutes at 180°C/350°F/Gas 4. To finish, defrost thoroughly, put in an oven preheated to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6 and cook for 5-10 minutes or until golden brown.
We cook the rolls in Moro’s wood oven. To protect them from the harsh, dry air of the kitchen, whilst proving and to save space, we made a proving box that fits one hundred rolls snugly.
Posted by Nigella on the 5th Jun 2014