Photo by Jonathan Lovekin
There is not much one can ever helpfully say about a Nigel Slater book other than “Buy it”. Frankly, his name on a book cover is all that’s needed. And yet, I’m here, with his new, gorgeously hot-pink book besides me, which I’ve already read numerous times, and I have to say how this small book, dedicated to meat-free recipes (this volume is spring, summer; autumn, winter’s coming soon) has a particular quality: the introductions are shorter, sometimes no more than a line of words, and yet there is such a relaxing expansiveness about the writing still. This small book opens up into such a large world. And, as ever, there is his trustworthy, reassuring voice, which seems to speak so intimately to each reader alone. And of course the food is wonderful: simple, sometimes playful, always inviting. His recipes have the barest titles: Peas, Parsley, Vegetable Stock; Asparagus, Miso, Mustard; Courgettes, Ricotta, Pine Kernels, and so on. It’s as if they are outlines for a shopping list, but the brief description under each answers back with his characteristic bare poetry: “A green soup for a sunny day”; “Green spears. A savoury dip.”; “The heady scent of deepest summer”. I want to eat everything in this book. And I should mention there are puddings in this book, too: a stroke of genius to have a crumble with marzipan in it: “Soft apples, mildly spiced. A crumble crust that is soft, buttery and comforting. The merest hint of festivity.” This jewel of a book is utterly entrancing. And although it’s small-format, it is gratifyingly chunky and you might want a cookbook stand for your kitchen copy.
Having said that there was nothing needed to say, I now find it difficult to stop talking about it. Get the book so you can read, re-read and luxuriate in it yourself. But for now, I leave you with this beautiful recipe.
From Greenfeast by Nigel Slater, published by Fourth Estate, 2019.
Photographs by Jonathan Lovekin.
