It was Claire Ptak of Violet Cakes who alerted me to this lovely book. That’s to say, I saw it on her Instagram a couple of weeks back and, given that she makes cakes of unparalleled exquisiteness, I got hold of it instantly. The only reason I’ve been sitting on it for a bit is that I hoped the horrendous heat would abate, giving way to weather slightly more conducive to baking before I brought it to CookbookCorner and to you, but I ran out of patience and hope. Still, there are plenty of recipes here that just beg to be made in sticky summertime; the chapter on Frozen Desserts is worth the price of admission alone.
And while there are so many recipes throughout that make this a book to treasure, what Marie Frank is providing is so much more than them: each chapter — Fruit; Tarts; Frozen Desserts; Cookies & Biscuits; Creamy Desserts; Individual Cakes; and Sharing Cakes — explains techniques, gives you a framework for flavour, and the means to explore and invent and discover on your own. It’s not a huge book (it runs to a little over 200 pages) but there is just so much in it. I love the clarity of her prose, and the poetry of her palate.
Among the recipes that called especially to me are the Passion Fruit Tart with Elderflower Crème Fraîche; the Basil & Chocolate Tart with Raspberries; the Rye & Corn Cookies; Toasted Almonds Ricciarelli; Olive Oil Panna Cotta with Braised Cherries; Bergamot Cheesecake; Citrus Madeleines; Praline Profiteroles; Spiced Carrot Cake with Hot Honey Frosting; Ginger-Tamarind Dream Cake; and Saffron & Roasted Lemon Drizzle Cake. There was one recipe in particular, though, that I kept coming back to, and I knew I had to share it with you. It’s an engaging riff on a classic from Frank’s native Denmark, the Brunsviger, which I already adore; “Think ‘love child of sticky buns and focaccia’ and you will get the picture’ she writes, and yes! Her version brings to it a beguiling taste of Schiacciata all'uva, the Italian harvest focaccia with grapes, and all in all I couldn’t be more delighted to bring you this Brunsiviger with Grapes & Rosemary.
More Than Sweet by Marie Frank, published by Hardie Grant.
Photos by Line Klein.
