Before I even got this book in my hands, I could tell it was special. And if this sounds suspect, I have to explain that I tend to go through possible CookbookCorner contenders in unprinted, digital form ahead of time, and it was immediately apparent that I needed The Kai Cookbook in my life. It is, as the subtitle proclaims, “a love letter to the West of Ireland” but, more than that, it’s a celebration of the sharing of food, of cultures, of the coming together of peoples; Diana Henry writes in her beautiful foreword of “a whole world in a small restaurant in the West of Ireland”.
Jess Murphy, the restaurant’s chef and owner, and the book’s author, is from New Zealand – “kai” is the Maori word for food – but her connection to her adopted land infuses every page. And, equally, every recipe proclaims her joy in her community, her suppliers, and their ingredients, but in a way that feels real and robust: there’s not an ounce of preciousness here. Her food is vibrant, and yet calm: Spud Focaccia with Wild Garlic Pesto; Galway-style Khachapuri; Whole Plaice on the Bone with Cornichon Mayo; Kai Fish Fingers; Niamh’s Lemon and Rhubarb Layer Drizzle Cake; Connemara Clams with Bloody Mary Butter; Cherry Buckwheat Crumble; Ossobuco with Salsa Verde; Puntarelle Salad with Torn Ham and Mustard Sauce; Smoked Gubbeen and Onion Gratin; Venison with Pickled Blackberries and Horseradish Cream; Molly’s Smoked Whiskey Fudge. This is just a smattering of what this lovely book offers, and the recipe from it that I’m eagerly sharing with you today, is her ravishing (and gluten-free) Iconic Pistachio Gateau!
The Kai Cookbook: A Love Letter to the West of Ireland by Jess Murphy (Nine Bean Rows, £30).
Food photography: Nathalie Marquez Courtney.
