“What began as a way to honour my grandmother’s legacy”, Ranie Saidi writes in his moving introduction to The Malay Cook, “grew into something deeper… For me, cooking is not just about repeating the past. It is a living language that carries the flavours of my heritage while embracing the rhythms of the country I now call home.” And this is what makes the book so vividly appealing: it’s rooted in life, provides a context for as well as an introduction to a rich culinary culture and, beyond that, is quite simply an intriguing and inviting collection of recipes.
I have already eagerly bookmarked his Satay Chicken Wings (Sate Kepak Ayam); Malay Pineapple & Cucumber Pickles (Acar Timun Nenas Melayu); Pomegranate & Rose Water Rice (Nasi Ros Buah Delima); Herby Rice with Mackerel Coconut Sambal (Nasi Ulam & Sambal Kelapa Ikan); Mamak Turmeric Cabbage (Kobis Goreng Mamak); Smoked Haddock in Coconut Milk (Masak Lemak Ikan Haddock Salai); Malay Fried Chicken (Ayam Goreng Melayu); Stir-Fried Beef with Mint (Daging Goreng Pudina); and a glorious, golden chicken soup! But the recipe I just had to share with you today is his Shredded Chicken Salad — Sambal Racik Ayam — which is beautifully simple and mood-boastingly vibrant with ginger, lemongrass and chilli.
The Malay Cook by Ranie Saidi, published by Ryland Peters & Small (£25).
Photography by Mowie Kay.
