My friends, I’m here to tell you that The Racine Effect is real! The determining factor is Henry Harris, whose food is a surefire guarantee of absolute bliss. He’s always been the unflagging standard bearer for proper French cooking, gutsy but alight with a whole-hearted, harmonious elegance, the sort that was considered absolutely comme il faut when I was a child, but for years was pushed out by the kind of Cal-Ital cuisine that’s held sway for so long now. And I feel it’s Harris who’s brought it back. This isn’t so much about fashion, but about quality and taste and enduring comfort, characteristics this beautiful book shares with his menus. Any praise I feel fitting might sound like gush, but is, in fact, restrained understatement. It is just not possible to overstate his cheerful genius or the brimming delight of his food. I bow down before him in gratitude — for his years as a chef, his palate, his hard work and his smile-inducing presence, and now this book.
I’m all in: from the perfect, simple sandwiches — Jambon Beurre, Merguez-Frites Baguettes — to Grilled Onion Salad, Garlic Bread with Anchovies and Lemon and Shallot Salad, Slow-Baked Shoulder of Lamb with Garlic and Mint Jus, Chicken Liver Pâté, Duck Fat Roast Potatoes: you can see why the quote from me on the book’s cover says “I want to eat it all”! But there’s more I want to tell you about. Not every recipe is French, but it always feels like something you could eat in France in some way — Crab Omelette with Thai Seasonings, Baked Smoked Haddock with Parmesan, his mother’s Almond Cake — but his rendition of the classics is worth dwelling on: Tarragon Roast Chicken; Snail and Bone Marrow Gratin; Rabbit with Mustard Sauce and Smoked Bacon; his celebrated Crème Caramel with Prunes and Armagnac. I just couldn’t love this book more. And the recipe I am so happily sharing with you today is his Endive au Gratin: bitter chicory, sweet, nutty Comté, savoury, salty ham; as HH says “This is the best comfort dish on earth."
Extracted from The Racine Effect, Henry Harris (Quadrille, RRP £40.00).
Images © Sam Folan.
