My Favourite Potato Salad
by NigellaIntroduction
I call this My Favourite Potato Salad, as that is exactly what it is. I may be in the minority here, but what I think of as an American-style potato salad, slicked with mayo, sprinkled with raw onions and eaten cold, is a distinctly unappealing proposition for me. I like a potato salad much the way my grandmother and mother before me made, just warm (or at room temperature) and dressed while the potatoes are hot enough to absorb some of the mustardy, pickle-tangy dressing. Neither of them used the glorious, golden cold-press rapeseed oil I can now get and, indeed, a not-too-emphatic olive oil can easily be substituted.
And while I love this just as it is, I can tell you it’s also gorgeous with some cut-up or torn anchovy fillets added along with the capers and cornichons, and my mother often made a version with chopped, still warm, just-hard-boiled egg. I should add that you could well fry some streaky bacon till crisp, use the fat in place of some of the oil, and chop or crumble the bacon and toss it in at the end. I must insist – please – that you steam your new potatoes. Indeed, I always steam them, even if they’re to be eaten hot and glistening with melted butter. The difference it makes to their taste and texture is a game-changer.
I call this My Favourite Potato Salad, as that is exactly what it is. I may be in the minority here, but what I think of as an American-style potato salad, slicked with mayo, sprinkled with raw onions and eaten cold, is a distinctly unappealing proposition for me. I like a potato salad much the way my grandmother and mother before me made, just warm (or at room temperature) and dressed while the potatoes are hot enough to absorb some of the mustardy, pickle-tangy dressing. Neither of them used the glorious, golden cold-press rapeseed oil I can now get and, indeed, a not-too-emphatic olive oil can easily be substituted.
And while I love this just as it is, I can tell you it’s also gorgeous with some cut-up or torn anchovy fillets added along with the capers and cornichons, and my mother often made a version with chopped, still warm, just-hard-boiled egg. I should add that you could well fry some streaky bacon till crisp, use the fat in place of some of the oil, and chop or crumble the bacon and toss it in at the end. I must insist – please – that you steam your new potatoes. Indeed, I always steam them, even if they’re to be eaten hot and glistening with melted butter. The difference it makes to their taste and texture is a game-changer.

Share or save this
Ingredients
Serves: 6
- 1 kilogram salad potatoes
- 50 grams cold-pressed rapeseed oil (see Additional info, below)
- 10 cornichons (approx. 50g) cut into half-centimetre slices, plus 2 teaspoons liquid from the jar
- 3 tablespoons of nonpareille capers (approx. 35-40g), plus 1 teaspoon liquid from the jar
- 1 teaspoon raw apple cider vinegar
- 1 teaspoon English mustard
- freshly ground white pepper (though you can substitute black)
- 2 tablespoons roughly chopped fronds of dill, plus some more little fronds left whole
- 2 tablespoons chives (finely chopped)
- 2lbs 2 ounces salad potatoes
- 3 tablespoons cold-pressed rapeseed oil (see Additional info, below)
- 10 cornichons (approx. 50g) cut into half-centimetre slices, plus 2 teaspoons liquid from the jar
- 3 tablespoons of nonpareille capers (approx. 35-40g), plus 1 teaspoon liquid from the jar
- 1 teaspoon raw unfiltered apple cider vinegar
- 1 teaspoon English mustard
- freshly ground white pepper (though you can substitute black)
- 2 tablespoons roughly chopped fronds of dill, plus some more little fronds left whole
- 2 tablespoons chives (finely chopped)
Method
- Steam the potatoes for about 45 minutes, or until soft when pierced with a small fork. Tip the water away and sit the cooked potatoes over the still-hot pan beneath, without a lid on top of them, to dry out for 5-10 minutes, though you can easily leave them there for longer.
- While the potatoes are steaming, get on with the dressing, which I make by pouring the rapeseed oil, the liquid from the jars of cornichons and capers, the vinegar and mustard into an empty jar and shaking together. Do whisk together in a bowl if you prefer.
- Get out a large mixing bowl and transfer the cooked potatoes to it, cutting them in half lengthways as you do so. Then grind white (or black) pepper very generously on top. Give your dressing a good final shake before you pour it over the potatoes and then toss gently but patiently to mix, and leave the potatoes for 10-15 minutes, until just about warm but certainly not hot.
- Add the sliced cornichons and capers, plus most of the chopped dill and chives, and toss again, patiently but well. Taste for seasoning. I’m a salt-fiend, but find the salt in the caper and cornichon liquid provides enough. Do add more vinegar, cornichon or caper liquid if you want more sharpness.
- Turn out into a serving bowl and scatter the rest of your dill and chives on top.
- Steam the potatoes for about 45 minutes, or until soft when pierced with a small fork. Tip the water away and sit the cooked potatoes over the still-hot pan beneath, without a lid on top of them, to dry out for 5-10 minutes, though you can easily leave them there for longer.
- While the potatoes are steaming, get on with the dressing, which I make by pouring the rapeseed oil, the liquid from the jars of cornichons and capers, the vinegar and mustard into an empty jar and shaking together. Do whisk together in a bowl if you prefer.
- Get out a large mixing bowl and transfer the cooked potatoes to it, cutting them in half lengthways as you do so. Then grind white (or black) pepper very generously on top. Give your dressing a good final shake before you pour it over the potatoes and then toss gently but patiently to mix, and leave the potatoes for 10-15 minutes, until just about warm but certainly not hot.
- Add the sliced cornichons and capers, plus most of the chopped dill and chives, and toss again, patiently but well. Taste for seasoning. I’m a salt-fiend, but find the salt in the caper and cornichon liquid provides enough. Do add more vinegar, cornichon or caper liquid if you want more sharpness.
- Turn out into a serving bowl and scatter the rest of your dill and chives on top.
Additional Information
For the US: cold-pressed rapeseed oil is not the same as Canola oil. If you can’t find cold-pressed rapeseed then use olive oil instead.
MAKE AHEAD / STORE:
It is not advisable to make ahead, as the potato salad is best when freshly made and slightly warm.
Leftovers will keep in the fridge, tightly covered for up to 5 days (and up to 3 days if adding hard-boiled eggs and/or anchovies).
For the US: cold-pressed rapeseed oil is not the same as Canola oil. If you can’t find cold-pressed rapeseed then use olive oil instead.
MAKE AHEAD / STORE:
It is not advisable to make ahead, as the potato salad is best when freshly made and slightly warm.
Leftovers will keep in the fridge, tightly covered for up to 5 days (and up to 3 days if adding hard-boiled eggs and/or anchovies).
Tell us what you think
Thank you {% member.data['first-name'] %}.
Explore more recipesYour comment has been submitted.