Publishing a book should be a time of joy, and Sami Tamimi deserves to be in full celebration mode with his beautiful Boustany. But if it is hard to review a book of Palestinian food right now, I can’t bear to think how hard it must be to be launching one. And yet food matters. It matters emphatically: it is the stuff of life; it is the essence of identity. As Tamimi has himself written recently “Palestinian food is not just about flavour; it’s about history, belonging, and homeland. In a context where Palestinian existence is often contested, asserting a distinctly Palestinian cuisine becomes an act of claiming space and identity.” And although flavour is only part of the story, it is a significant component, and Tamimi exults in it, generously inviting us to do so also. It’s an invitation I’m eager to take up.
Subtitled “A Celebration of Vegetables from my Palestine”, Boustany is, like his previous book Falastin, vibrant, compelling, and just packed with recipes that demand a place on your table. I’ve bookmarked so many! Yes to the Burnt Chilli Salsa (Shatta Mishwiyyeh); to the Braised Eggs with Pita Bread, Tomatoes & Za’atar (Beyd Makli ma’ Khobez w Za’atar); to the Green Beans with Leek and Tomato (Fasoulia Khadra bil zeit); Tahini, Tomato and Mint Dip (Tahinia ma’ Banadoura w Na'na); Fridge-Raid Fattoush; Fennel, Kohlrabi and Coriander Salad (Salatet Shumar w Kohlrabi); Tomato, Za’atar and Sumac Salad (Salatet Za’atar w Banadoura bil Sumac); Red Lentil, Dried Mint and Lemon Soup (Shorbet Adas bil Laymonn); Pointy Cabbage and Tahini bil Siniyeh (Malfoof bil Siniyeh); Fenugreek and Onion Buns (Aqras Helbeh); Chocolate Date Bars (Ma’amoul bil Shukulata); Lemon and Pistachio Cookies (Ma’akaroon); and Sumac Roast Plums with Cardamom Cream and Pistachio (Barquq bil Sumac w al Creama). Well, yes to all of it, actually! I feel equally positive about the remaining recipes in the book that I’ve cruelly left out from my list. At least one of those I can bring to your attention now, namely the Crushed Broad Beans with Goat’s Cheese and Preserved Lemon Salsa – M’tabbal Ful Akhdar – as it’s the one I’ve gratefully chosen to share with you today.
Boustany: A Celebration of Vegetables from my Palestine by Sami Tamimi is published by Ebury on 19th June at £30.
Photo by Ola O. Smit.
