Ever since Sue Quinn posted a picture of the beautiful cover design of COCOA, I knew I had to get my hands on a copy. No, I wasn’t pre-judging a book by its cover exactly; I’ve read enough by Sue Quinn to know I would want any book she wrote. And this one is every bit as compelling as its subject, from an unblinking look at its dark history to a joyous exploration to the many ways we love to eat it (and some exciting suggestions for new ways to enjoy it). This is a recipe book only in part - it’s chiefly a readable investigation into it from a historical, scientific, literary and cultural perspective - but what recipes there are make sure this book earns a place in the kitchen as well as on the bookshelf. I’ve already bookmarked After Eight Brownies, Black Sesame Seed and Dark Chocolate Brioche Loaf and - as a matter of urgency - Pork Carnitas, but the recipe that was truly singing my tune (and which I’m very glad to share with you here) is the triply alluring Chocolate, Marmalade and Ginger Steamed Pudding.