I fell in love with Gurdeep Loyal’s writing the minute I started reading his first book, Mother Tongue. Quite apart from being a completely covetable collection of recipes, it offers enormous insight into the act of cooking itself, and his sentences are as delicious as his food. Of course, it helps that his sensibility chimes so harmoniously with my own: it’s only human nature to respond positively to those we agree with! And with his brilliant follow-up, Flavour Heroes, once again I find myself glowing in the company of a kindred spirit. That’s to say, this book takes certain key ingredients that Loyal feels can boost your food immeasurably and effortlessly, and so many of his cherished pantry staples are exactly my cherished pantry staples. Key among these, for me, are the Gochujang, toasted sesame oil, tamarind, miso, instant espresso powder and dark maple syrup, but I am also very pro harissa, Pecorino Romano, Thai green paste, mango chutney and 'nduja, and on his recommendation, am ready to stock up on yuzu koshō, chipotle paste, Calabrian chilli paste and dark roasted peanut butter.
You don’t have to buy every ingredient he highlights, of course: this book yields so much pleasure even with just a few of them. Above all, it’s an excellent guide to how to think of flavour and how to build it as you cook. My list of bookmarked recipes is long, but I’ll pare it down for a shortlist here: Vinegar-brined Frites with Gochujang-Andalouse Sauce; Fennel Sausage, Gochujang & Vodka Paccheri; Plum & Tamarind Char Siu Bao Buns; Nacho Cauliflower Cheese with Jalapeño Relish; Blood Orange, Sesame & Marzipan Polenta Cake; Sticky Lemongrass-Miso Lamb Ribs with Zingy Carrot Salad; Miso Ganache Fudge Cake; ‘Nduja Crab Cakes with Roasted Pineapple Salsa; Whipped Feta with Calabrian Chilli-Honey Butter; and Coffee-Cola BBQ Pork Carnitas. Utterly irresistible! As is the recipe I’m joyfully sharing with you today, namely the no-churn Brown Toast & Malted-Coffee Ripple Ice Cream.
Flavour Heroes by Gurdeep Loyal (Quadrille, £27).
Photography © Patricia Niven.
