Simple is a much misunderstood word in cooking but what it is not, or not necessarily, is a synonym for basic. For me, simple food implies a lack of unnecessary fuss; denotes a pared-down approach; and, importantly, is not arduous to make. It certainly doesn’t indicate carelessness: in a way, simple food involves a great concentration of attention, even if that doesn’t involve heavy labour at the stove. Luckily, that intense care and concentrated focus is exactly what Julia Busuttil Nishimura gives to her recipes, allowing us to reap the benefits in our kitchens at home. The recipes in Simple Pleasures are immensely inviting, relaxingly do-able and full of the sort of flavour that makes the everyday feel special. And, as Joan Didion so wisely once said, “Every day is all there is”.
But as I say, simple doesn’t mean basic, and the recipes in this glorious book bear this out deliciously. I won’t list all of them (though I’m tempted) but among the ones that sing to me particularly are the lime-sharp and coconutty Spiced Lentil & Chickpea Soup; Minestra of Cabbage, Rice & Polpette [meatballs]; Cavolo Nero, Chickpea, Farro & Chestnut Soup; Mezzo Rigatoni (a shape I have such a fondness for) with Pork Ragù & Peas; Ginger & Coriander Chicken; Anchovy Butter Roast Chicken, so particularly up my street; Grilled Pork Meatballs with Rice Noodle Salad; the cosily alluring Miso Pork & Cabbage; Cabbage, Date & Almond Salad; Moroccan Eggplant (Aubergine) & Tomato Salad; Potato, Onion & Gruyère Tart (made with bought puff pastry); Sesame White Chocolate Cookies; Salted Rye Choc Chunk Cookies; Blackberry Iced Buns; End-of-Summer Plum Cake; Coconut & Lemon Cake with Passionfruit Icing; Fig, Brown Butter & Thyme Cake; and the enticing Paciugo, a celebratory sundae made with macerated fruits, whipped cream and good shop-bought ice cream that I can’t wait to make.
But the recipe I have chosen for you today is her Crème Fraîche Chicken, a cosy yet bright and vibrant one-pan wonder.
Simple Pleasures by Julia Busuttil Nishimura, published by Plum, photography by Armelle Habib.'
