Photo by Nassima Rothacker
I know was predisposed to welcome this book to my overcrowded shelves, for when it comes to cakes and bakes, my tastes certainly run along Eastern European lines, taking in — there are overlaps — the Germanic and Austro-Hungarian canon, too. But truly, the delight The Sweet Polish Kitchen has been giving me is something no realistic person could really expect, which makes it even more of a treat. The recipes are the immediate attraction, to be sure, but Behan’s relaxed, chatty and engaging voice brings them to life with charm and intelligence — she is just such good company on the page. Not that you will want to spend that much time lolling about just reading: if you’re anything like me, you will almost immediately feel yourself propelled into the kitchen.
And this book provides a welcoming and accessible introduction to Polish baking for those as yet to savour it: Lemon and Poppyseed Bundt; Szarlotka — as in Charlotte — which is indeed an apple cake, but with a pastry base, and a meringue and crumble topping; Napoleonka, also known as Papal Cream Cake in honour of Pope John Paul II whose favourite it is said to be; Double Plum Crumble Cake; Stefanka, a chocolate and honey layer cake; the glorious-sounding Layered Raspberry and Lemon Cloud Cake; the classic Polish doughnuts, Paczki; Easter Babka; Poppyseed Cinnamon Buns with Cream Cheese Glaze, a newer innovation of Behan’s; Seromakowiec, the gorgeous Polish cheesecake with poppyseed paste; Pierogi with Sweet Cream Cheese; Knedle (much like the Austrian Knödel) which are butter-and-sugar-dressed potato dumplings, stuffed with plums or apricots; and the latke-like potato pancakes, Placki.
I had no hesitation in choosing a recipe to share with you today, as it is a real favourite of mine, introduced to me some years ago by a Polish friend, and it’s the wonderful Karpatka — two sheets of choux pastry, the top one rumpled and dusted with icing sugar, sandwiching a filling of thick pastry cream. It’s a honour to have it on the site!
From The Sweet Polish Kitchen by Ren Behan, published by Pavilion Books, 2024.
Photos by Nassima Rothacker.
