Emiko Davies has that wonderful gift of making you want to rush straight into the kitchen. But perhaps not quite straight: I want to linger cosily with the book, with its beautiful pages of recipes and stories from her Italian family. Tortellini at Midnight is infused with warmth: a love letter to Italian home cooking. The recipe I’ve chosen for you, is the one I keep returning to, and I’m sure you can see why. It’s the Ziti al Forno, an eat-me-now baked pasta. It can be hard to find ziti in this country (and often what are labelled ziti turn out to be penne), so I hope Italians - and Emiko - can forgive us for substituting rigatoni for them.
TORTELLINI AT MIDNIGHT: and other heirloom family recipes from Taranto to Turin to Tuscany by Emiko Davies (Hardie Grant, £25.00)
Photography: Lauren Bamford