I don’t know about you, but when I come across a book that’s really special – it doesn’t matter whether it’s a novel, a memoir, or a cookbook – I suddenly feel a certain sensation that shouldn’t really exist: that’s to say, a mixture of deep calm and tingling excitement. Well, that’s the feeling I get from Umai. I love everything about it. I love its beautiful, tranquil cover, its chic elephant-grey endpapers and, most importantly of course, every single recipe. Even in the best of times, we need to locate sources of solace, support, and strength to help us find those qualities within ourself, and we are so very much not in the best of times right now, I’d say. What we cook and eat may not lessen the wickedness of the world, but any form of succour is to be cherished, and so I’m immeasurably grateful for this book.
I can’t supply you with an adequate shortlist of recipes from it, simply because there is not one that I want to leave out, so I’ll have to give you an inadequate shortlist instead. Here goes: Zuke Maguro Don/ Marinated Tuna Rice Bowl; Mentaiko Pasta/ Spaghetti with Spicy Cod’s Roe; Tori Katsu Sando/ Chicken Katsu Sandwich; Gyuudon/ Beef and Onion Rice Bowl; Katsu Kare/ Katsu Curry; Nikomi Hamburg/ Stewed Burgers; and Kimchi to Maguro no Otsumami/ Kimchi and Tuna Wraps. It pains me to leave so much out: just get the book and you’ll see what I mean. Anyway, the recipe I’m blissfully happy to be sharing with you today is the Mabo Nasu, which is, as Millie Tsukagoshi Lagres explains, “a Japanified rendition of the Chinese dish, Mapo Tofu”.
Umai by Millie Tsukagoshi Lagares (Quadrille, £27).
Photography © Lizzie Mayson.
