I only have to think of Jeremy Lee to feel joy bubble up in me. If you’ve ever eaten his beautiful but cosy food, read his first book, ‘Cooking’, heard him speaking mellifluously and expansively, or come across his vital, generous being, you will understand. So you must also understand that the effervescent enthusiasm for his new volume, Kitchening, that’s coursing through me now is hard to put into cool, clear words. ‘Cooking’ rightly became an instant classic, but there is no troublesome second album feel about his follow-up at all: it is a heady triumph!
Lee has a magisterial — in fact, positively majestic — turn of phrase, as suits his person, and an acute and sensitive approach to food and its pleasures that makes every page a delight. Despite its title, I don’t feel you even have to be someone who spends time in the kitchen to reap the benefits of this book. Yes, it’s invaluable for the cook, but it is every bit as rewarding for the eater or appreciative reader. Wonderfully illustrated by John Broadley’s drawings and Elena Heatherwick’s photographs, it is a work of charm and beauty. It would be simply impossible to tell you about every recipe that bears an eager post-it on my copy, so I will have to make do with a hurried shortlist. My feeling is that you need this book in your life regardless, but I’m happy to shout recipe titles to you anyway. So here goes: Pickled Rhubarb; Chicken Livers and Bitter Leaves; Smoked Haddock and Barley Soup; Rabbit, Walnuts and Anchovy; Onion and Anchovy Tart; Annabel’s Cheese Soufflé, Annabel being his late sister, to whom this book is dedicated; Braised Shin of Beef; Wild Garlic Risotto; Ham Hough, Carrots and Parsley Sauce (and I now feel very vulgar for customarily spelling Ham Hough Ham Hock); Radishes, Mint and Ricotta; Leeks Vinaigrette; Chicken Legs, Morels and Broad Beans; Asparagus, Courgettes and Mint; Steamed Lemon Pudding; A Dish of Mackerel and Gooseberries; Poached Chicken with Aïoli; Duck Legs and Green Peas; Crab Rice with Coriander Chutney; Peach and Redcurrant Trifle; Gooseberry Crème Brûlée; A Chowder of Corn and Clams; Ham Hough, Chicken and Leek Pie; Pear and Hazelnut Tart; and Clementine Curd plus the dreamy Fool it can be used in.
One of the triumphs of Jeremy Lee’s kitchen is his sumptuous pile-ups of meringue, fruit and cream, and in this book he brings us a gorgeous, fudgy, brown sugar version, so I just had to share A Tumble of Meringues and Berries with you now.
KITCHENING: Day-to-Day Good Food, Come Rain or Shine by Jeremy Lee, published by 4th Estate.
Photos by Elena Heatherwick.
Decorations by John Broadley.
