I have a folder in my Gmail named Holiday Dreams inc Restaurants and anytime I see somewhere I long to go to or to eat at I send myself an email with the appropriate link and squirrel it away there, with hope in my heart. One of the earliest entries to this folder is the Parisian Brasserie, Le Bistrot Paul Bert. It is fiendishly hard to get a table: there is no reservations service on its website and booking by phone is not always a straightforward exercise. Still, I dream of a visit this year (as I do every year, actually) but, until then, I am very happy to have their very own cookbook in my hands. And they’ve just brought out an edition in English! Of course, it’s impossible to replicate the experience of being in a Parisian bistro in your own kitchen, but that’s not what I’m after. I am, however, after reminders of and recipes for the French food that I grew up with and love: Egg Mayonnaise; Harengs Pomme a l'Huile, which is pickled herrings with potatoes, drizzled with a little olive oil; Artichoke Vinaigrette; Terrine de Campagne; Céleri Rémoulade; Roast Bone Marrow with Roasted Baguette; Steak Tartare; Steak Wing with Capers; Beef with Peppercorn Sauce and Sautéed Potatoes; Confit de Canard; Boudin Noir with Apples; Rabbit in Mustard Sauce. I could go on, but I’m sure you get the drift. From the sweet side of things, there comes my twin favourites, Paris-Brest, a ring of choux pastry with toasty hazelnut buttercream, and Rum Baba; Tarte Tatin and Île Flottante. And from this treasure trove, I’ve chosen the Poireaux Vinaigrette, that brasserie stalwart of Leeks Vinaigrette, that in Bistrot Paul Bert’s version, is served rather gorgeously with Lard Croustillant, which is to say, Crispy Bacon!
Le Bistrot Paul Bert by Bertrand Auboyneau with Gwénaëlle Cadoret (Abrams, £35).
Photos by Annabelle Schachmes.
