While I have something of a weakness for the greedy obsessiveness of a single-subject cookbook, the truth is Leaf is a single-subject cookbook in name only; its subtitle is advisedly ‘Lettuce, greens, herbs, weeds - 120 recipes that celebrate varied, versatile leaves’. I want to stress this, as Leaf is so full of richly varied recipes I am hungry to cook, from herb butters, vinegars and sauces, to robust dishes and both elegant and cosy desserts. Don’t be misled by title: it is not a book of salads!
Earmarked already (with pink post-its to match the gorgeous cover) are Panisse with Green Mayonnaise; Kimchi Omelette Sandwich; Braise of Kale and Mushrooms with Sage and Apple Dumplings; Radicchio Risotto (a particular favourite of mine); a glorious Beef Ragù; a lusciously sticky Pear and Rosemary Upside Down Cake. But the recipe I had to share with you is the Stuffed Savoy Cabbage Leaves (included in said stuffing: black pudding and chickpeas). And I hope it brings comfort and joy to you as the days grow colder and the nights draw in.
LEAF: Lettuce, Greens, Herbs, Weeds by Catherine Phipps (Quadrille, £25.00)
Photography: Mowie Kay