There are cookbooks a-plenty in the world (this is no criticism) but it’s rare that I come across one quite as entrancing as Nandên. And, despite my 5,000-plus collection, it is my first Kurdish cookbook. I have spent the last two weeks pleasurably immersed in it, and I can already tell that it will be in constant use in my kitchen. Nandên, in fact, means ‘kitchen’ in Kurdish; it is also often written and pronounced ‘nandine’, the name of Pary Baban’s acclaimed restaurant in South London. The food is in turn fresh, comforting, aromatic with herbs, and richly celebratory, for all the pain and struggles of the Kurdish people. And this book is such a beautiful testament to that.
As ever, before sitting down to write this, I set to with my post-its to flag those recipes I particularly wanted to highlight for you, but I had to give up about halfway through as I realised I couldn’t find a page I didn’t want to affix an enthusiastic Post-It to! Still, I can’t just print the index here, so I’ll do my best to give you a workable shortlist. I have to begin with the Kubay Brinj, or Kurdish Rice Dumplings, in which rice is cooked and kneaded into a batter to make the shell, which is then stuffed with spiced minced/ground beef, almonds and raisins, and deep fried. Then there’s the Lamb Dumplings Cooked in Swiss Chard Broth (Kiftay Brwêsh); a rice-thickened Red Lentil Soup (Niskêna); Mung Bean and Barley Soup, topped with Poached Egg (Mashêna); the beautifully festive Gipay Mreeshk, Chicken Stuffed with Spicy Rice and Nuts; Baked Fish with Sumac (Masi Brzhaw); the compelling Senegasir, a traditional dish of Rice and Green Lentils with Meatballs; the jewel-bright Fermented Beetroot, Turnip and Carrots by the name of Shêlm Be Tirsh; and an irresistible selection of gorgeous breads.
I really didn’t know how to choose just one recipe to share with you today, but then I decided that since the Kurdish New Year – Newroz – is upon us, it made sense to go with a dish that celebrated that. So with a glad heart, I bring you the Zalatay Kuzala, an exquisite Watercress, Radish and Pomegranate Salad. And I’m enormously grateful to Pary Baban for bringing us her culture, her food and this beautiful book.
Nandên: Recipes from my Kurdish Kitchen by Pary Baban. Published by Ryland, Peters & Small.
Photos by Clare Winfield.
