Generally, when cookbook authors are breathlessly prolific, never letting a year go by without a new publication, I worry that recipes will not get the thorough testing or quality control needed. And that can, indeed, be the case. But I know I never, ever have to worry about that with the magnificently productive Sabrina Ghayour. Persiana, her first book, came out in 2014 and she’s not stopped since; today, 12 years on, she’s published her ninth, and it’s an absolute belter. Persiana One is, in common with her justly successful other titles, accessible, exciting, alive with flavour and full of bankable recipes you can rely on to make your life easier and more delicious.
The ‘One’ of the title is readily explained by its subtitle — ‘One Pan. One Tray. One Pot.’ — and it is exactly what's needed. As she writes in her introduction: “We all crave simple recipes that involve minimal effort and kitchen equipment and less washing up, but still deliver big on flavour, and that’s exactly what this book is all about.” As I embark on rustling up a shortlist of recipes that call out particularly to me, I can’t help feeling that it would be fairer reflection of my thoughts on the matter were I just to write out the index! That not being feasible, I shall do my best, but please know as I shout out names of dishes to you, that I’m inwardly wincing as I ruthlessly leave so many out. So here goes: Roasted Aubergine, Tomato, Pepper & Walnut Dip; Carrot, Orange & Pepper Salad; Green Bean, Broccoli & Potato Salad with Pickled Chillies & Preserved Lemons; Golden Spiced Parsnip Soup; Spicy Orange Chicken Bites; Cod with Herby Orzo & Green Beans; Spaghetti with Oregano, Lemon & Pul Biber; Mushroom, Garlic & Paprika Orzo; Halloumi, Coconut & Black Bean Stew; Saffron Vermicelli with Koftas; Pomegranate Beef Short Ribs; Mango, Lime & Chilli Chicken Traybake; Sticky-Glazed Spring Onions with Sesame; Baked Sweet Potatoes with Yogurt, Harissa & Chives; Lemon & Black Pepper Cabbage; Sesame, Garlic & Tahini Spinach; Salted Peanut Baklava Roll-Ups; Passion Fruit, Lime & Coconut Cake; and Dark Chocolate, Almond & Raspberry el Hanout Torte. Hard to believe, but that’s me trying to keep it brief! Anyway, before I leave you, I must just tell you that the recipe I had to share with you today is the knock-out Watermelon Salad with Toasted Rice & Tamarind Lime Dressing. I’ve already made it twice (to rave reviews all round the table) and can’t stop: it’s a kitchen saviour in this hideous heat.
Persiana One by Sabrina Ghayour (Mitchell Beazley, £28) is out now. Photos by Kris Kirkham.
