Crispy Duck
I've always thought one of the best ways to eat duck was as the Chinese do, but I had never thought it would be so easy to cook. I say "cook". I do nothing except cut some fat off the duck and sit it…
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I've always thought one of the best ways to eat duck was as the Chinese do, but I had never thought it would be so easy to cook. I say "cook". I do nothing except cut some fat off the duck and sit it…
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If you want to make this with fresh vegetables rather than frozen, then up the water (keeping the amount of stock concentrate the same) and indeed I would double it to 500ml / 2 cups. But if using fro…
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This is my idea of perfect dinner party food: it's easy to make, not complicated to serve and looks — and tastes — exquisite. Feel free to griddle or grill your duck, rather than just sear it on the h…
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This tamarind-tangy curry makes for a perfect dinner on a hot night; light enough not to knock you out, but spiced enough to prompt a heat-drowsy appetite. And it is such gloriously easy food to make.…
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I love the sort of dinner that you cook without any special effort but without sacrificing gratification. That's the thing really: cooking is simple; you can choose to complicate it, but there's no ne…
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Don't worry if the word mizuna means nothing to you. It's a tenderly peppery Japanese salad leaf, which some greengrocers, and even supermarkets, stock these days, but you can easily use rocket instea…
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‘Ragout’ is French, ‘ragù’ Italian, and this meat sauce is certainly inspired by the Sicilian combination of sweet lamb, dried wild mint and crushed chilli flakes, though I’ve added an Anglo note with…
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I know that people feel very strongly about anchovies, pro or anti. I'm fiercely pro, and if you are, too, you will love this. For those who are hesistantly rather than resoundingly anti, I say to you…
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When my children were younger, this was always one of their favourite teas and is now one of their favourite suppers. It serves 2 or 3 children — double quantities for teenagers and above.
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Admittedly, making a meat sauce and then cooking pasta in it is very un-Italian, but it is dee-lish. Plus, it goes down a treat with children and teenagers and thus makes a great family supper. I love…
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I came across this recipe in Anna Del Conte's memoirs, Risotto with Nettles. Now, there are so many recipes I could borrow from her, and many I have, but this is the one I have to show you here. She i…
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This came about the way most of my favourite food has come about, by greedy opportunism. I had some cold chicken in the fridge, a huge bunch of parsley in a jug by the stove and had recently opened a…
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You do need to serve this lamb salad warm rather than cold (a bit of fat provides flavoursome lubrication at anything above room temperature; once cold we're talking congealed, waxy whiteness — not su…
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The anchovies really just provide flavourfulness, certainly not fishiness: there is no need to mention their presence if you are feeding people who might take against the idea. This, as with most stew…
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There is something about cooking the classics that feels like coming home and this comforting Belgian casserole is a reassuringly simple recipe — I scarcely bother to sear the meat — that feeds a huge…
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I find fresh horseradish easy to come by these days but, if you don't, add the same amount of hot horseradish cream or sauce from a jar for the marinade. If you want to serve lamb skewers alongside, t…
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I buy organic beef mini meatballs from the supermarket, which makes this extremely easy to put together, and there'd be nothing to stop you freezing them and cooking straight from frozen, if that help…
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As with all stews, this is even better made in advance and reheated; for me, this only makes things easier.
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A roast, boned, butterflied leg of lamb is just about the easiest, speediest way to cook a joint of meat. Plus, you dispense with all the difficult carving (I am an embarrassingly inept carver myself)…
View recipeBeautifully simple and exceptionally flavoursome recipe, a real winner with a nice glass of wine.
The joy of these, particularly, is that they are wonderful eaten cold as well, their pink juiciness trapped within their eggy parmesan coating. If you don't have any stale bread to hand for making the…
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I love this combination of cool hummus, hot, lemony-sweet shards of meat and the waxy, resiny nuts.
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No one does lamb cutlets better than the Italians and this recipe, which comes to me by way of the great Anna Del Conte, is a case in point. The nuggets of pink meat are so tender and flavourful that…
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Think hamburger, Middle-Eastern style. And if this isn't enough of a come-on, think again. I am mad for these pitta-sandwiches smeared with hummus and stuffed with red onion, mint, shredded lettuce an…
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I know that I am often regarded as somewhat odd for cooking entire meals just for myself, alone. I wouldn't think of apologising. On the whole I am not someone either good with her own company or with…
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I love this dal-inspired combination of earthy lentils, sour tamarind and sweet dates. It's so full of tang and flavour that you really need eat nothing else with it, save some flatbread or naan, thou…
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There is something about fresh, really fresh, grilled sardines that reminds me instantly of those long holiday lunches in rented summer houses abroad. But if neither sardines, nor a fishmonger to fill…
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You know, I'd eaten this a couple of times and made it myself (throwing in handfuls of peppery watercress as I did so) a few more before I realised it was, give or take, the River Cafe's recipe — by w…
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I can't quite believe how simple yet luscious these are. I prefer to get my scallops from the fishmonger for this, which is just as well as I don't think I could ever get a supermarket to supply me wi…
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This is that life-saving, thick, pasta-and-bean meal of a soup — pasta fazool — as sung about by Dean Martin in That's Amore. It's just the thing you want to eat when the rain's battering against the…
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This is one of those fast and easy suppers that makes you — and whoever else is eating it — purr with delight. You don't have to use garlic infused oil, but minced garlic is likely to burn. What I'd s…
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This is a proper supper, but a speedy one. And though it's not often I choose chicken breast over thigh, here it is gently poached so stays wonderfully tender, and the fat from the chorizo balances it…
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The sauce borrows from the idea of tsatsiki and all those Middle-Eastern yogurt salads — it is a cool, pungent accompaniment to the tender, but not strongly flavoured, chicken.
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Tarragon, the gorgeously named “dragoncello”, is actually little used in Italy, despite the country’s immoderate passion for all things anise. You find tarragon used only here and there, mainly in Tus…
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I took it into my head one day that I wanted to marinate and cook some chicken with the flavours of a traditional sage-and-onion stuffing. So onion, mustard, sage and lemon infuse the jointed bird, an…
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These are not even remotely fancy: the "Ritzy" of the title refers to the crackers of the same famous name. I make crumbs out of them, and use them to coat small pieces of chicken that have been tende…
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This is one of those recipes you just can't make once: that's to say, after the first time, you're hooked. It is gloriously easy: you just put everything in the roasting dish and leave it to cook in t…
View recipeThis really is such a great roast chicken dish. Simple and delicious - make sure you try it!
I know it might sound a bit of a faff, but take it from me that stuffing a whole double breast joint is very much easier than stuffing and rolling a single breast joint, as is more commonly found in s…
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When I was a child, steak houses always had something called minute steak - as in minnit - on the menu, economically attractive portions that needed a mere 60 seconds to cook through. In our house the…
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Of course, I'm tempted to do a gammon steak with pineapple, and I wouldn't begin to stop you, but I think parsley is really the key here. When I've got time, I am happy to stand at the hob, whisking u…
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I often double the quantities for the meat filling, then freeze half, so I'm only a defrost away from another pudding. Traditionally, oysters were added to steak and kidney pud; I thought a little oys…
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The method is this: instead of marinating the meat before cooking, you marinate it after; it really does keep it extraordinarily tender.
View recipeI made this last night and I think I am going to be addicted to it!! Doing it again tonight as well. Thanks.
If you want to forgo the grilled radicchio alongside, then do and just make a tomato salad to go with it, but the combination, as it stands, is perfect: the heat-wilted radicchio loses some of its bit…
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I don't suppose this is ever going to win plaudits from the World Health Organisation, but a cheese fondue is surely the stuff of dreams. On the plus side, health-wise, I love it best with radishes, c…
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There are few more welcome sights than a big vat of chilli. The cornbread topping is a glorious golden touch, that everyone can crumble into the spiced meat as they eat, for ballast and crunchy contra…
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This is wonderful: light and refreshing and very, very easy to put together. It does, however, need to be cooked, if that's the word, at the last minute; any more than 10 minutes' steeping and the lim…
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This must be the fastest way there is to create a culinary sensation. You do scarcely a thing — just dibble some salmon steaks in a dark glossy potion, most of which you get out of a jar — and what yo…
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Matzo meal is widely available at supermarkets, and well worth keeping in store. I use tinned salmon here because I think, strangely enough, that's how they taste best (if it's good enough for Marguer…
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My templefood days do not consist of fey picking: this is gratifyingly substantial. In order to enjoy it you don't have to know that salmon is rich in Omega-3 oils, which are beneficial, indeed essent…
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I like my salmon almost sushi-coral and cooked for two minutes a side, but if you want yours less pink, then cook for three to four minutes a side and add some water to the vermouth mix, as the longer…
View recipeAbsolutely great! Loved everything about it. A great fast and easy dish to make.
You can find raw prawns ready shelled in the freezer compartment at the supermarket these days, so even though this is an extravagance to buy, it isn't difficult to cook. Think of this as the trade-of…
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I know the list of ingredients is long, but a lot of this is stuff that will help you generally if it's part of your storecupboard-stash. If you don't want to go in for specialist shopping at all (I l…
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You can take the girl out of the eighties, but you can't quite take the eighties out of the girl. Far be it from me to call for a return to la nouvelle cuisine, but this is a chunky hommage to the sea…
View recipeI first made this for a piece I was writing for Vogue on the mood-enhancing properties of carbohydrates, as promoted by such books as - and how's this for a title? - Potatoes Not Prozac. Since then, c…
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There are certain days when only something soothing and comforting and topped with mash potato will do; on such days, this pie could make you weep with gratitude.
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Cooking potatoes for large numbers of people is not always easy. This gratin makes it so, not least because I don’t peel the potatoes (or the parsnips for that matter). Obviously, you don’t need to ma…
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This is one of the easiest suppers to make, but somehow, however much I know this, it always surprises me. Not in the cooking, so much as in the eating: I can't believe, each time anew, how deep and t…
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It's a good idea to have something up your sleeve that you can cook quickly, and simply, when you've got friends coming over to supper midweek after work. This is that something. Don't let the length…
View recipeI have made this recipe umpteen times now. And, without fail, the guests ask for the recipe!
This is the shortcut version: no cheese sauce, but a gorgeously huge amount of cheese, bound with egg and evaporated milk. Yum. And please read the Additional Information section at the end of the rec…
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The recipe title says it all. You need no more than a few minutes to load up a couple of freezer bags (I wash mine and re-use them) with ribs and chicken, oils and unguents and then, after a day or so…
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Strange though it might sound, this is another of my supper-standbys. I keep the frozen squid in the deep freeze, taking it out in the morning at breakfast to let it thaw in time for the evening's mea…
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This is really a tweaking of a fairly traditional rabbit recipe. The chicken is easier to come by in a supermarket, though, and more likely to please generally. You can leave the skin on or off the th…
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A roast chicken always feels celebratory; indeed, a roast chicken always is celebratory. The vibrantly coloured and intensely flavoured vegetables that are cooked alongside here seem only to underline…
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My mother used English sausages mostly, and those flat, sludgy lentils (Puy lentils weren't so easily available then) but this is at its best made with highly flavoured Italian sausages (I love the on…
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I've used Beluga lentils here, partly because I love the name, but mostly because I am very keen on these tiny, black spheres which, when slicked with oil, look like caviar. But do use the paler grey-…
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I don't bother to sear the meat, which means you really need skinless portions; unbrowned chicken skin is not pretty. If you're not buying thighs, but thigh fillets, then it is probably more helpful t…
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This is possibly the easiest route to a proper, filling and yet strangely delicate dinner. The pork is cooked just enough time to take away any pinkness but ensure tenderness within, and is gloriously…
View recipeI've made this for my daughter and I a couple of times now. Its so easy yet yummy and so quick to do, from walking in the door to on the table in twenty minutes.
For obvious reasons, this is known chez moi as pig and fig, and in many ways the combination is a seasonal and wintery version of the Italian summer combo of Parma ham and fresh figs.
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There are a few meals I can say I'm making that will make my children as excited as this. Alongside there must be Pie Insides (which is what my daughter has always called leeks in white sauce) and for…
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If you are afraid of tackling fish in general, and of cooking seafood in particular, just reading this recipe will show you how easy it is, but doing it is even better. This is one of those simple but…
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Goujons have fallen from grace, but it is hard to work out why. The crunch of the breadcrumb casing, the tender, yielding softness of the white fish within: this is a fish finger taken to the highest…
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This is one of my most regular standbys, and the speediest. You just heat up some smoked haddock in a frying pan/skillet with some water and aromatics, then get a couple of cans or a jar of beans, hea…
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Those of my vintage may remember this dish from the eighties fondly as Tataki of Tuna: a log of ludicrously rubied fish, rolled in pepper, briefly seared and eaten finely sliced with shredded spring o…
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Even the word pie is comforting. But then, it would be hard to deny the very real lure of pastry, especially when, as here, you know you're going to dunk it in gravied juices till its luscious lightne…
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No one’s saying you have to make fresh pasta, but once you try, you’ll soon see that it’s not so difficult. I had a pasta machine for years before I was brave enough to use it; for some reason I thoug…
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For me the only turkey is a brined one. Not only does it tenderize and add subtle spiciness, but it makes carving the turkey incredibly much easier. You have only to try this method to be utterly conv…
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This may well be — indeed is — the smell, the taste, the dish that says "family" to me and my siblings, and brings our long-absent mother back to the kitchen and the table with us. This is not merely…
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Much as I love to have a pan bubbling away on the stove, I often feel that the most stress free way to feed people is by taking the oven route. When I'm frazzled, I firmly believe that the tray-bake i…
View recipeOne of the easiest, tastiest recipes I have cooked.
My children, when little, wouldn't have cared if all I ever gave them was pasta with some bottled sauce poured over, and I don't deny that's sometimes indeed what they were given; but to please myself…
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The trick to these meatballs is to keep them small. Don’t actually use a teaspoon, but use about a teaspoon’s amount of mince to roll each ball. If there are children around, so much the better; they…
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As with all dishes that find their way into a country's repertoire, even oddball ones like this, there are many versions of this recipe: some add chilli flakes, some cubes of bacon: I prefer it with n…
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My version of pasta alla puttanesca has had a slight name change. And yes, I realise that it’s not really necessary to translate the title, as this store cupboard standby of pasta with anchovies, oliv…
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Consider this simply a guide: use other fish fillets if you like, or indeed substitute chicken breasts; just remember they'll need much longer cooking and therefore probably more liquid. I love this w…
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Kedgeree started life, in India, as a dish of lentils and rice and then, translated into the kitchens of the Raj, and brought back home, became an eggy, golden pile of rice punctuated with slabby chun…
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This might seem odd to Italians but it works beautifully: the starchy rice, the sharp Cheddar, both are the perfect counterpoint for each other. I make this on days when I need to escape to the kitche…
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This is a strange hybrid of a recipe: kedgeree cooked as if it were a risotto, that is to say Anglo-Indian influence, Italian method. I admit, however, that Italians may look askance at this recipe: a…
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There is something so magnificent about a whole pumpkin stuffed with jewelled rice, that it doesn’t really need too many side dishes to detract: its starchy interior means you can forgo potatoes or th…
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Call me Scheherazade, but I'm in my turquoise gauze veil and jewelled slippers for this one. The cinnamon and lemony yoghurt marinade gives the chicken a soft, perfumed tenderness; the saffron in the…
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Like all old favourites, this changes pretty well every time I cook it. Sometimes I use the sake, both in the marinade and the fluid sauce later; sometimes I use Marsala or sherry. And there is no rea…
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Balance is everything in cooking: here, the acid brightness of the tomatoes is met with the sweetness of peas and the rich creaminess of the coconut rice, itself pricked with the sharpness of lime and…
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Many of you might have noticed this recipe has had a name-change: somewhat lazily, and definitely erroneously, I’ve always called it “Mexican Lasagne”; I’m far happier with its new name, Tortilla Lasa…
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It is not quite normal to feel as joyous as I do when saying the words “Brussels sprouts”, but this recipe does not merely use said much-denigrated ingredient, it also celebrates it. Sprouts are nutty…
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This is one of my proudest creations and, I suppose, a good example of a recipe that isn't originally from Italy, but sits uncontroversially in her culinary canon. I don't think it would be too presum…
View recipeSo easy and so delicious! I can't wait to cook it again.
Although this recipe does not itself issue from Italy, the inspiration is entirely Italian. One of my favourite things to eat is a risotto Milanese, sometimes called "risotto giallo" — or yellow risot…
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One of the joys of this is how easy and quick it is to make. You may need to be rather brutal with the lettuce as you tear the leaves off to provide the edible wrappers for the beef, which is why I sp…
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This bulgur wheat salad is loosely based on tabbouleh, only using coriander in place of the parsley, lime in place of the lemon and omitting the tomatoes and adding the chilli and some raw, diced cour…
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This is the perfect recipe for using leftover chicken or turkey at any time. A jicama is sometimes known as a Mexican potato, though that's a bit misleading since you can eat it raw. It looks like a t…
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I love the tangy fire of Thai cooking; I love equally the traditional English partnership of lamb with redcurrant and mint. I just happened, one day, because of what I had in the kitchen, to bring the…
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In How to Eat, I used a shallot for this salad; here I've used a spring onion. Frankly any allium of your choice would be fine. Similarly, any salad leaf you like can be used as its foundation.
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This started off life as a reworking of Coronation Chicken, that mixture of cold chicken, mayo, mango chutney, curry powder and apricot puree (or that's how both my grandmothers made it) that, strange…
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This recipe is a slight reworking of a Cambodian beef salad I often make; here the lime juice in the steeping mixture (which turns into the dressing) is supplemented with orange juice (Asian evocation…
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We are in rose-tinted heaven here: the pink glint of the red mullet's skin flashes like a Barbie-mermaid's tail against a salad of shredded pawpaw, red chilli pepper, carrot and spring onions, sprinkl…
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When it comes to chicken, I am very much a thigh than a breast person, but this salad makes me happily relish the white meat. Indeed, I am always happy to roast a chicken, eat the brown meat, and leav…
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For some reason, this lesser-known cousin of moules mariniere has gone out of fashion. That's to say, I haven't seen it on a menu or eaten it anywhere outside of my kitchen for yonks. And yet it's so…
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